TD5 Sump Plug Issue

OK so this is not fishing related albeit I need my vehicle to get there.

I decided to do a full service on my TD5 today only to discover that the sump plug was not going to move at all. The result now is that the plug is stripped and despite spending good money on a tool to remove the stripped plug, It still refuses to budge.

I have a few ideas like welding a piece of bar to the plug so I can forcibly remove it. The problem I see here is that the plug looks like it's alloy as it is very soft.

Any ideas guys before I take an oxy torch to it? LOL

 

 

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Vince.
Work smart and fish often.
Member and die-hard supporter of the mighty West Coast Eagles.


Posts: 96

Date Joined: 04/03/09

u could drill and tap a hole

Sun, 2010-05-23 19:19

u could drill and tap a hole using a left handed thread so it removes the plug when u put a bolt into it....

Posts: 1136

Date Joined: 10/06/09

if it strips out you can put

Sun, 2010-05-23 19:38

if it strips out you can put a heli coil in the damaged thread

they also sell a socket that will grab damaged bolt heads seen them at tool mart

try getting the engine to running temp then try to crack it 

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getting the bottom line final answer from a bunch of blokes that use false names and put smiley faces at the end of paragraphs is not the best place in the world to get the information you seek.

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http://www.excaliburtools.com

Sun, 2010-05-23 19:44

http://www.excaliburtools.com.au/shop/home.php?printable=Y&cat=10

these are the ones 

if you get really stuck there is a mobile guy who just removes broken bolts not sure of his details but i expect he wont be cheap 

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getting the bottom line final answer from a bunch of blokes that use false names and put smiley faces at the end of paragraphs is not the best place in the world to get the information you seek.

UncutTriggerInWA's picture

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Cheers thesupervisor

Sun, 2010-05-23 20:03

I went out and bought one of those tool sets today. Just your cool $50. Same olde same... no result. I recon the pricks use Locktight. It looks like a drill and a new sump plug (that's a guaranteed necessity). Woe is me.....Why does this happen?

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Vince.
Work smart and fish often.
Member and die-hard supporter of the mighty West Coast Eagles.

fishintruckie's picture

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Date Joined: 22/07/08

 

Sun, 2010-05-23 21:01

Laughing 

fishintruckie's picture

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If you can still get a

Sun, 2010-05-23 20:53

If you can still get a spanner on it try heating the engine up to operating temp then cool the sump nut rapidly with CRC contact cleaner or I have seen a fitter at work use a can of butane then hit it with a hammer and then try the spanner

Faulkner Family's picture

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hear is a suggestion for you

Sun, 2010-05-23 22:05

hear is a suggestion for you Vince. Why not just drill a hole in the sump plug and using a tap and die set to put a new thread in the old plug using a decent size stainless steel bolt. that way you will have a sump plug there just not quite the same size. i have seen it done before on other things

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wopjrb's picture

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Date Joined: 05/03/09

by a sump / gasket from the wreckers

Sun, 2010-05-23 22:27

replace TD5 with toyota?

NOHA's picture

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Stripped??

Sun, 2010-05-23 22:51

When your saying the plug is stripped are you talking about the thread into the sump casing or the points on the hexangonals of the plug head itself?

If the points are rounded off, try using a metrinch spanner as they dont grab at the points but in the center of the flats. If you know what I mean? If your down Rocko way I got a set of Metrinch spanners. Just measure across the flats to give a size and you can borrow the spanner.

I agree with the Toyota comment Tongue out

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UncutTriggerInWA's picture

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Date Joined: 05/09/08

Thanks for the advice Guys

Mon, 2010-05-24 06:07

For the sake of a sump plug I think I will keep my TD5 Tongue out.

Thanks for the offer Noha. I went out and spent $50 on a damaged nut and bolt remover kit. I still haven't managed to free the plug. It looks like I need to get the vehicle up in the air so I can get some grunt happening. An old bloke like me finds it very difficult to work lying on the ground.Yell

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Vince.
Work smart and fish often.
Member and die-hard supporter of the mighty West Coast Eagles.

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Date Joined: 04/07/09

retap

Mon, 2010-05-24 06:10

I agree with ff. leave the existing plug in there,if it is ally, it may have been cross threaded last time it was fitted and it will be difficult to move now.Just drill and tap the existing plug to take a bspt plug . It will be fairly small(about 1/4BSP)but it's better than taking the sump off. You can get the tapered taps (BSPT) and the correct size drill from most hardwares.

81macca's picture

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Time to remove the sump and

Mon, 2010-05-24 06:25

Time to remove the sump and do the job properly. If it is an alloy sump dirll it out on a bench so you can remove the drill swarf that falls int the sump and run a tap through the threads. When ally gets thin it starts to brake away so wont be difficult to do.

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I actually fish.

UncutTriggerInWA's picture

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Date Joined: 05/09/08

F*%$ The Plug - It can stay there!

Mon, 2010-05-24 09:39

LOL. I have decided it can stay there seeing as it's so snug and tight. I have bought one of these http://www.liquivac.com/liquivac_oil_change_system.htm and I will happily not roll around on the floor covered in crap. How simple and idea is this?

The unit cost me $98.00 plus GST at Coventry's. It may sound a lot but it can be used on boats, lawnmowers, quads, etc. A handy addition to the garage.

Thanks again for your input guys. At some stage I will schedule a maintenance day and take off the sump.

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Vince.
Work smart and fish often.
Member and die-hard supporter of the mighty West Coast Eagles.

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Vacuum pump

Mon, 2010-05-24 13:15

I hope it works more efficiently than the one I bought from Whitworths for the 400ci Chev V8 in my boat.  The vacuum pump works, but takes forever to empty the sump via the dipstick (and yes, I do run the engine first to warm the oil up).  My advice is to have a beer in hand while you do it, and an esky with a few more in within easy reach!

UncutTriggerInWA's picture

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LOL

Mon, 2010-05-24 13:48

I have a beer fridge in my garage. A TV as well if I need it. My unit I bought from Coventry says allow 8 minutes in normal circumstances. I will try it out tonight. The thing I like about this one is it has high capacity (6.5 liters at a time). That's handy for vehicles like mine that gobble up 7.5 litres of Penrite at a time.

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Vince.
Work smart and fish often.
Member and die-hard supporter of the mighty West Coast Eagles.

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TD5 you say?

Wed, 2010-05-26 23:36

If so it's a left hand thread. It's in the workshop manual.

UncutTriggerInWA's picture

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Really???????

Thu, 2010-05-27 06:19

*#@#*#@!

Surprised

OK thanks......

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Vince.
Work smart and fish often.
Member and die-hard supporter of the mighty West Coast Eagles.

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ROFL, who reads manuals

Thu, 2010-05-27 08:15

ROFL, who reads manuals anyway?

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Should be nice and tight now

Thu, 2010-05-27 08:36

Should be nice and tight nowSealed

HuggyB's picture

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I dont think the plug is the issue

Thu, 2010-05-27 08:01

Its the fact you bought a Range Rover...........LOL

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STOPPPPPP!!!!!

Thu, 2010-05-27 10:25

Don't try it Vince I was just taking the pi$$. I wouldn't have a clue. Jump on the AULRO forum, you won't find a more helpful bunch of strange people with a fetish for Landys.

 

If I had to guess I'd say it stripped 'cos you were using a metric socket. I know my TDi was all imperial.

slosh30's picture

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what drive?

Thu, 2010-05-27 16:28

the bolt remover kit you bought is it basically a socket with blades inside that grab the nut/bolt? if so if it is a 1/2" drive i have a 48" braker bar that im sure will rip it out mate 

let me know